Thanks to Devin Meireles for this nice write up, of one of our favourite places to ear in Curral das Freiras.
Just before you read Devins adventure, he has also written a book about his family and from when his grandfather who lived in the Azores emigrated to Canada, where Devin lives at the monent, but visits Madeira regularly as its him dream to eventually live here. Click the link below.
In the depths of the middle of the island, there is a place to feed your carnivorous appetite. The most authentic espatada you could ever have. Finding your way there will hardly be easy but this is one the most unique experiences that Madeira has to offer.
North of Funchal, there is a remote town that sits between mountain peaks, Curral das Freiras. It’s a hidden gem. I heard that the Catholics hid the nuns from intruding pirates there, hence the name—Nuns Valley.
It’s the chestnut capital of the island and offers a lot of flavoured liquors. During the Christmas season, they also have a mega presepio (nativity scene) that takes nearly fifteen minutes to walk through. It’s a pleasant little town accessible only from the south.
From there, you climb a road on the western side of the valley towards Miradouro de Fajã Negra, literally a dead end, but across the road is where you find Restaurante O Lagar Antiguidades. That’s where it is.
While we waited for our table to be prepared, we had a taste of their homemade aguardente (moonshine) for an aperitif. It tasted like fuel for an airplane. One of those shots could kill a rat but it opened our appetite for what was to come.
The menu is small yet perfect, specializing in a few items really, really well. Beef or chicken cooked with bay leaf skewers over an open fire. It’s juicy with a crispy char that’s tender enough to melt in your mouth. Accompanied with sides of bolo do caco (Madeiran bread), salad, and potatoes. That’s it. Simply heaven.
The candor of it all is reflective of the people of the valley. That’s what makes it so good. When you’re there you realize how the simple things in life are usually the best. Dining with a majestic view of the valley, it’s an unadulterated experience unlike anything else. Just as if you’re dining with God themself.
While savvy locals make the trip there and hikers find the restaurant off the beaten path, they all leave with the same sentiment—a full stomach, catharsis and a reminder that life is what you make of it.
Below the Giant Presépio in Curral.