Seven magnificent meals in Madeira

The first time I order espetada – a Portuguese dish that originated in Madeira and consists of skewers of grilled meat – the beef arrives in a pot, already de-skewered. This is at a restaurant in Funchal, the Madeiran capital. The meat tastes lovely but I feel cheated of the inherent drama of the dish. Skewered meat without the skewer? Where’s the fun in that? The second time, I head to a traditional eating house in the northern hills called Casa de Pasto Justiniano. Here, espetada is cooked and served the old-fashioned….

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